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TMB - Tour de Mont Blanc Gear List


I hiked the Tour de Mont Blanc (TMB) in 2018 after having done the Te Araroa and the Pacific Crest Trail in the two years before. So I had accumulated a lot of hiking and long distance experience. On these two long distance trails I tried out a lot of different gear and also learned a lot. When I started in New Zealand I was completely over-packed! I had a 75l backpack and carried about 16kg of base weight! Only after three weeks I had the first big "roll-over" where I changed my tent, shoes, backpack and also ditched a lot of stuff.

Changing and reducing gear has almost been a sport since then. Looking back now on how carefully I changed and decided not to carry the one or other extra I almost can't believe how much I voluntarily carried 😂 But I also have to admit that without going through the process myself I would probably not be as convinced of my setup now. I also would have felt uncomfortable with some of the stuff I am doing now (not taking) without the first hand experience. Based on the knowledge I have now and also the confidence in my own capabilities eg. with cold, wet, dry and injuries I still feel safe with the minimal equipment.


Tour de Mont Blanc - 4 days and camping

Since we only had four days in total we had to go very light and we also wild-camped every night. We also carried all food for the first two days until we were surely able to resupply in Courmayeur. We wanted to be independent from huts and daily limits with our hikes. It paid off well. We did the entire circuit in 4 days and 3 hours. It meant a daily average of 12-14 hours of hiking but it was doable.

When I tried to plan the route, trip and especially the days needed in advance I did not find any sufficient information about people doing it on their own in a relatively short amount of time. Most people take 6-10 days. Because of this I also didn't find any appropriate information about the gear to take and also the recommended daily sections. Here you go.

Since we hiked together of course we were able to share a few pieces of equipment like the tent and the stove. But to make it easier to follow I will post the full gear list for a solo hike.

What to pack?

Pointing it out again - everybody has a different comfort zone! So there is no right or wrong. You should never risk your health or even life by under packing and not being prepared! If you don't feel comfortable take whatever makes you comfortable! You can still throw stuff out on the next re-supply stop but you can't "get it" in the middle of nowhere if you need and don't have it with you.

In general I do recommend the same stuff I carried on the PCT at the very end. Of course it very much depends on the season you go. If you go during the high summer it is less likely to get really cold temperatures. Nevertheless you are in the Alps. Depending on your altitude and the weather system you can get temperatures below freezing, thunderstorms and any hazardous conditions you can encounter in the mountains. At the end you are in a high altitude mountain area.

The entire gear list in a quick overview:

(Some links in the table are affiliate links)
The hiking outfit
Sun protection
Trekking poles
The big three
Pouch for backpack
MSR Ground Hog Mini tent stakes (8)
Sleeping bag
Waterproof stuff sack
Sleeping pad
Cooking pot
Trangia Pot incl. handle
Water filter
Water container
Water Bottle
Food bag
Rain jacket
Rain skirt
Rain pants
Down jacket
Neck gaiter
Stuff sack
Medics & Hygienics 
Half tooth brush
Tooth paste
Contact lenses
Case, solution, extra pair
Eye infection creme
Standard small nail clipper
Toilet paper
Amount depends on days.
Pain killer
4 alcohol pads
6 capsules
Repair kit
Ductape wrapped around trekking pole
6 cable ties
Repair gear
1m Dyneema Composite Fabric
Repair gear
Special tape for air mattress
Repair gear
Tenacious tape
Repair gear
Super glue
Stuff sack
USB with double port & iPhone cable
Battery pack
Phone & navigation
iPhone 6S
Waterproof case
2 spare batteries for headlamp
Stuff sack
Olympus OMD EM1 II (incl. battery & SD)
M.ZUIKO Digital ED 14-150mm 1:4.0-5.6 II
2 extra Olympus batteries
Memory card
2x SanDisk Extreme Pro 64GB
Camera clip
Camera rain cover
Olympus charger & cable
Additional Gear
Gatorade 1l bottle
Total base weight
Total base weight incl. camera
Weight on the hiker

Sweet as, brew! Let me know when there's new stuff online!

As summarised earlier for the PCT already:


Most important with a backpack is that it fits your back. They all have different harnesses and fit different backs. So make sure to try many. The other features are less important. If you carry heavier loads >15kg you want to have a good hip belt or otherwise you will have bruises on your hips and it's uncomfortable on longer hikes.

My backpack of choice is now the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 2400 Southwest. It's specially designed for ultra-light hikers with a 40l volume and only weighs 811g (in comparison my Osprey 50l bag weighs about 1,8kg!) and it is waterproof in itself. It helps you only taking the things you really need since there is not a lot of space 😉. As a reference my bag is maybe half full with all my gear. The rest is "reserved" for food and I usually fit 5 days in it easily. I would not recommend it with a permanent weight over 15kg, but if you exceed it in the first days of a long hike because of food it should be ok since you will get lighter every day.

I also have a Zpacks Backpack Shoulder Pouch on one of my shoulder straps for my phone, ND filter and snacks.



Since we were two for the trip we shared the Zpacks Duplex. It is made out of Dyneema Composite Fabric (also known as Cuban Fibre) which is highly durable and super lightweight with 539g only! Including 8 stakes with 60g the total weight of the tent comes down to 599g. Comfort, space and durability are amazing. Keep your vestibules open for ventilation since in a single wall tent you do get condensation very quickly. It's not cheap with 555US$ but it's well worth every cent if you sleep in it every day.

Sleeping bag & sleeping pad:

The lightest and smallest version is always down. The higher the number of the filling (e.g. 850) the better the quality of the down and therefore the less you need for the same insulation. As mentioned above I would go with the Western Mountaineering Summerlite sleeping bag which is rated for +6C comfort and a max of 0C. I only had a 3 or 4 cold nights below freezing and used used my rain jacket and my backpack as a sack wrapped around my feet for extra insulation in cold nights - just make use of whatever you have if you need it.

Due to packing size I opted for an inflatable sleeping mattress. I am not a fan of the bulky foam pads which you always have to attach to the outside dangling around. The Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xlite is the lightest one. I used to have a large one but now I go with the extra small one (119cm) since I put my legs on my backpack and other things. Saves 200g compared to the large/regular one.



Some people go without a stove and only eat cold or dry stuff. Apparently it works but I wouldn't want to go without one proper meal per day. So I carry a very small and light weight (83g) gas stove from Optimus Crux and a small gas canister. For cooking I have a 1.5l Trangia hardanodized ultralight aluminium cooking pot, the aluminum handle and  Sea to Summit plastic spoon.

My main water container is a cheap 1l Powerade plastic bottle - it does the job perfectly, is way lighter than the "proper" ones, the outflow of the Powerade bottle has the perfect size so that you can drink while walking (better than the Powerade one), you can replace it once in a while if it gets to nasty and it costs almost nothing! As a water filtration system you can go with the lighter Sawyer Mini instead of the Sawyer Squeeze. I only filtered my water 4 or 5 times on the entire trail. Since there is water everywhere in New Zealand and you rarely have two hours without a water source you can either carry a 2l Platypus or get an additional thin water bottle for the few occasions where you will need it.

I also have two stuff sacks (10l and 15l) for my food. It helps to easier squish the food into the backpack and I always separate breakfast & dinner from snacks. By doing that I can bury the breakfast & dinner bag in my pack and only have to take to bag with the snacks out during the day

(What I don't carry anymore different to before the trail and on the picture: camel bag, water bottle)


I try to carry as little as I can. Therefore I don't take anything which can't be used on top of each other for the worst case scenario. Don't over pack - yes, you will be smelly and a bit sticky. But everybody is out there. You'll get used to it. Not showering for ten days sounds really bad at the beginning but it's actually not. And once in a while there is also a river to jump in if you are desperate 😉

I usually hike in a Icebreaker merino wool t-shirt, my beloved red/pink Speedo swim shorts, short Icebreaker merino socks and my favorite Salomon Speedcross4 trail runners. To protect my socks and shoes from the insight I use very small Outdoor Research Sparkplug gaiters. As sun protection I have my new and cool Prana hipster cap 😎.

Rain gear: Outdoor Research Helium II rain jacket & Vaude Drop Pants II rain pants - for heavy conditions and when temperatures drop below 0C with rain and wind. And the above mentioned rain skirt Zpacks Rain Kilt. I would personally make it shorter and keep it over your knees for better movability.
My Patagonia Nano Puff jacket with Prima Loft Gold is the piece which keeps me warm in camp or breaks - very small and very warm. I find Prima Loft better on long distance hikes since it even warmth you if it's wet, it dries quickly and you can easily wash it - different to down.
One Icebreaker Descender Long Sleeve merino wool jumper - early in the morning or later in the day on cold and windy days I like to wear this one. Primaloft or down is to warm to walk in.
For the really cold days I carry a thin Icebreaker merino beanie, a Buff (neck gaiter) and a pair of Icebreaker Sierra gloves.
Since my swim shorts have a mesh inside I don't wear underwear. It also helps for better ventilation, less sweating and rubbing. So I only carry one pair of merino underwear to sleep in.
The only extras I carried were one Icebreaker merino t-shirt which is not really necessary - but it is nice sometimes e.g. in towns after a shower when waiting for the laundry to be done. But you don't need it. If its wet I either try to keep in on and dry it with body heat or I take it off and wear my jumper. It sucks in the morning to put it on again but after 20 minutes of exercising it's usually dry. In Oregon I changed one Icebreaker t-shirt for a long sleeve shirt because of the mosquitos and kept it to the end. I also have one pair of extra socks in case a sock breaks down. This usually happens quickly. I went through a pair in 3-4 weeks. Your feet are the most important part on this journey - you do want to do anything possible to prevent blisters and/or injuries! Other than that you only need one pair. Why? How many can you wear? Exactly. If they smell you wash them in a break. If they are wet? Then you walk in wet socks. If it rains on consecutive days even dry socks are wet after 20 minutes so there is no sense in putting dry ones on to into your wet shoes...

(What I don't carry anymore different to before the trail and on the picture: hat, rain skirt, thermal pants, towel)

Medics and Hygienics

How to go light: Try to buy the smaller sizes. No need to carry 200ml of something that will last for 2 month. Resupply more often. I have seen people carrying regular bottles of everything ending up with 3-4kg of liquids 🙈

My daily hygienics consisted out of a small and cut off tooth brush + toothpaste, contact lenses and cleansing fluid (extra pair and a few daily lenses in case of an eye infection), nail clipper, comb for my beard - therefore no razor 😂 and an amount of toilet paper suitable for the days - don't carry an entire roll!

In case shit happens. How much can you do in the wilderness? If it's a minor thing you usually don't really have to do anything and if it's a big thing (broken bones, etc.) you can't heal yourself anyways. So the only thing you have to do is get out and get help. So I am not a big fan of carrying a lot of stuff. For the heavy stuff I rely on painkillers (Ibuprofen), the cable ties and ductape.

I also carry Imodium for diaria (how many do you need? Not the entire pack for sure, just enough to get you out in case it hits you), a cream for eye infection which happens quickly with contact lenses, a couple disinfection/alcohol tissues (also work great if you have to clean camera lenses or surfaces before you repair / glue them). And a few Antihistamine pills after my shocking 25 sting-wasp-experience.

For the smaller issues and especially my feet I have a small roll of plaster tape (Mefix) which is a sticky plaster to seal open wounds and a 2m strip of Leuko Surgical Tape wrapped around a solid plastic tube: it's the only tape which really works. The adhesive is incredible and even stays on feet for days when they get wet. Don't try anything else!

Last but not least a 30ml sunscreen tube and a Ziploc bag to store everything.

(What I don't carry anymore different to before the trail and on the picture: Voltaren, Aspirin, hand sanitizer, bio degradable washing lotion, ear plugs)

Repair kit

Minimal as well. Tape and cable ties will fix most problems temporarily or even long term. For the electronics I only carry my iPhone for backup navigation (bad weather, emergency situations) and to write the blog.

Sufficient amount of ductape wrapped around my trekking poles so I don't have to carry it in the backpack fixes everything: equipment and also small injuries.
An Opinel Knife No. 6, a stripe of special waterproof repair tape for tents, rain jackets and repair kit for my air mattress, 6 cable ties, super glue, a spare lighter, a 10m MSR Ultralight Utility Cord (cloth line, rope to hang food and possible repair kit) and 2 small carabiners to hang food. On top I carried 4 one gallon Ziploc bags as emergency and rain gloves and socks and a small stuff sack to store everything.


USB charger with double port, my iPhone in a waterproof Lifeproof Case - also my fall back navigation and emergency (if I have reception) device, a Goal Zero Flip 20 Powerbank for two charges. A Black Diamond Ion headlamp for hikes during night time and everything else when it's dark. And I have a small Zpacks Wallet Zip Pouch for credit cards &, ID and all of it goes into a 3l Osprey Ultralight Dry Sack.

(What I don't carry anymore different to before the trail and on the picture: compass & maps which you won't need for the PCT)

The only luxury equipment - my camera

Photography is one of my passions. So I can't go without a proper camera. I tried to find a compromise between a full DSLR camera which is to bulky and heavy and a smaller one which will still give me a very high quality. For the last 2 years I have used my Olympus OMD EM10II with a micro four thirds sensor and the M.ZUIKO DIGITAL ED 14–150mm 1:4.0–5.6 II lense. It only weighs 1018g including the lense, battery and memory card which is significantly less than a comparable SLR.

On top I have 2 spare battery, 2 SD memory cards, cleaning wipes, a grey filter and the camera battery charger.

And I also finally found a way to attach my camera to my backpack so that I can always use it without taking my backpack off or it dangling around and being annoying. The Peak Design clip straps the camera to your shoulder belt. It's fixed, secured and you still have easy access to it. And after two years of heavy usage I can only highly recommend this thing including the shell to protect your camera from dust and rain. If you take the extra weight of a good camera with you this clip is a must item - if you have your camera in your pack you'll never use it and just carry dead weight around! Peak Design Capture Clip v3 for the backpack & Peak Design Shell for protection. Use the link to get a free gift 😉

PS: Unfortunately my camera went swimming 3 weeks before the end. So I had to replace it on the go. I have to admit that I used this excuse to directly upgrade to the OMD EM1 II with a 12-100 Pro Lense. It is significantly heavier (+460g) but I will also use it for non hiking purposes now. On long hikes I might try to use the old lense if I can repair it. For the packing list I include my old camera since it was the one I used.

Additional gear

Leki Khumbu hiking poles which I always use. It's said that they save you up to 30% of energy in your legs since you use your upper body which normally is not used when hiking.

Suunto Core Watch. Simple watch, altimeter and compass. I am not a fan of GPS watches since they use a lot of battery which you don't have out there.

Additional 32oz Gatorade (big opening) pee-bottle for the night. I hate getting out of the tent at night. Probably one of my most favorite items 😊


Sweet as, brew! Let me know when there's new stuff online!

Re-socialise VI: Already on year ago to the day I returned from my "break"...

One year ago to the day

It's unbelievable! But it has already been a year since I finished the last big adventure of my "break". On Thursday exactly one year ago I came back from Canada to Germany. And only a few days before that I finished the Pacific Crest Trail and arrived in Canada - 22. October 2017. After 2,650 miles, tons of snow, water and many fires we crossed the border in the morning and were "done".

At this point of time I had no clue what was going to happen next. No clue. The only thing I knew was that I just fell out of my new comfort zone. Living in a tent, just getting up, a few granola bars to get started, hiking all day, finding a spot to pitch a tent and only caring about the very essential things was my new comfort zone. And I had decided to leave it again. Not because I didn't like it. Not at all. But you probably all remember this one:

Where the magic happens.jpg

Let's start out with the day I arrived in Canada. One year later to the day I woke up exactly the same way as on the trail - in my tent. A bit of a different set up on our annual "Guys Adventure Weekend" but still in a tent on a sleeping pad and in my sleeping bag. Awkward. Pure coincidence? I don't know. But I did have a lot of thoughts and memories flowing through my head this morning.

Many things have changed. Many things have not

I knew that I had to move on, and not to a different trail but somewhere completely different to keep on growing. Many things have happened since then. Many things have changed. Many things have not.

I have thought about what has happened during the last year a lot. I have also been asked about what has changed, what has changed back "to old" and what I was able to keep. Time to look back and see. I went back and read the articles I wrote in the weeks and month after my return trying to capture my thoughts, reflections, ideas for the future and checked myself what turned out to be true and false or developed differently.

Sharing a place to live

Well, where am I now? I am still living in a shared apartment which I truly enjoy. My plan not to be able to withdraw into my own four walls and maybe fall into old habits worked out. Living together with others rewarded me with two things. Firstly the need to share and make compromises which helped me in not falling back into old habits, in not getting cranky and training my tolerance on a daily level. And on the other side purely enjoying community spirit of give and take and fantastic people around you enriching my life with stories, laughter and good food ;-)



What I have not accomplished so far is to be living closer to the mountains. Due to my obligation with our startup company campo I am and will be staying in Mainz for some more time for sure. So for now it's only a few escapes back into the mountains and the outdoors for a few days. But it shows that they have kept their unbroken fascination on me and I always feel home seeing and getting into them.


Can I escape all-day-life? No.

Yes, an all day life has arrived. I do live in a (shared) place since April. I do go to our office in a Coworking space pretty much every day. Sometimes on the weekends but in the last weeks the weekends have been kept "work-place free". Not that we are not also doing stuff on the weekends but life has adopted a bit more to our surroundings and their schedules as well.. And we do have regular things going on. We have breakfast together in the morning. We have ordered an organic box of veggies every week from a local farm for our lunch-cooking sessions every day. Yes, it is a routine. Also work does not have real boundaries to "the private life" anymore. They mingle, go together and just happen parallel. But therefore - for most of the days - work is always mixed with a lot of joy and fun activities. May it be the cooking or the night-shifts of GTA 5 in larger-than-life size. It is not a work time and then private time. They go together hand in hand. So fun during the work seems as right as work during the weekend. Even though - I have to admit to myself I guess - that work has the majority and the fun events have been a bit to little during the last weeks.

Work-Life-Balance? 100% left and/or right is my balance. That's it.

This leads me to another finding. I asked myself the question already once. Can I balance work and life better like others. Like one of my good friends maybe? I think I can't. And I accepted. I can't go for 80% and relax. At least not now. I always do things 100% or more. I guess my balance lies in the extreme 100% but not the chilled things. If there is something to do, an opportunity or whatever I will go for it. Either until it is done or until I am done. And only then I move on. I do accept that this has and probably will not change.

I have become softer and more mellow

But other things have changed. I have been asked many times already what has changed the most or at all after my travels. And also what has changed back to "old" now. What has been the biggest change in life.

Right now I always reply that I don't have changed in general. I am still the same personality. My core values are still pretty the much the same. But I have evolved and developed in many areas. I tend to say that I have become softer and more mellow. I am the same but with polished edges.  How does this show?

I am still resting within myself. There are no things that really kick me off the balance anymore. And if I start loosing this balance using my "Koru" as anchor still works. Just looking at where it is immediately puts me back into this balanced state of mind. I hope I can kept this forever (or at least for a long time). Things that would have annoyed or upset me early don't get me that easily anymore. My resilience is a lot stronger.

I am still very happy. Happy with my life. My setting. My surroundings. My everything. I still catch myself smiling out of the blue in public. I kept the attitude and the mental freedom of being able to just change things which I don't want to continue. With this all things become a conscious choice. Being conscious means that they are wanted and chosen. And if - at one point of time - they are unwanted they can be changed. With this even tough days are easier to deal with since they feel part of a wanted greater.

With this I have become more tolerant as well. Things that would have droven me nuts a few years ago I do see them as a different way of doing things. People have different priorities and different ways of doing things. Accept things you can't change and see if they can somehow put a smile on your face. I am also still very careful with my judgements. After being called judgemental by someone who I really admire I have been very careful with this discipline. I still judge. Pretty quickly. But I have trained myself to always start a second thought with something like "What's the story behind that it has come to this point?", "That's the easy call but what's behind the obvious?". This leads to more understanding, more openess and many interesting encounters. Still.

When it comes to material things I have been extremely good. I have not accumulated any additional stuff. Contrary to what I was afraid of I have reduced even further. Whatever has not been used or touched for a while had to go. Nothing has been sourced in without something else sourced out. I really enjoy not having a lot of responsibilities at the moment. I don't have a lot of stuff, I don't have (a real) rental agreement to take care of and I don't even have a single plant to take care of. I am pretty sure it will change at one point of time again but for now it feels good. Probably since it is such a dramatic contrast to how it was before.

On a side note - I still greet the bus drivers. Maybe not with the same enthusiasm anymore screaming from the last door to the very front but always when I leave or entere the bus through the front door. Maybe something I have to re-focus on.

One thing which annoys me massively is how much time I spend on my phone again. And I am not talking about talking on the phone. Partly it is a result of having one phone and mixing private and work life so borderless. But if I am honest to myself I also spend a lot of unnessary time on it. I definitely improved on the no-go-times. During meals, in conversations with other or any kind of interaction my phone is gone. But between these phases I am not very disciplined anymore. The "time to refelect when waiting for a bus" doesn't really happen anymore. Something which has caught me quickly.

There are probably many more things which I can't fully capture at this point of time. But in general I have the feeling my ressilience to influences from the outside is a lot stronger. Sitting in Munich with sneakers, shorts and hoody while everyone else is wearing good shoes, expensive watches, purses, button shirts and expensive labels everywhere else I couldn't care less.

And I have come to the conclusion that some things have changed for good. I don't think that I will be able to ever ignore or deny them anymore. They have just changed.


2018: Karwendel Höhenwanderweg, Austria


Our start-up crew decided to go for a digital-detox-weekend into the mountains. What was planned as a first hiking trip for two of the three ended in a spectacular journey. Thunderstorms, clouds, a bit of sunshine, wrong turns which led us into severe climbing terrain and an unplanned night hike. Stunning scenery! Karwendel - we will be back!


2018: Rheinsteig


A weekend escape in the backyard. The famous Rheinsteig starts in front of my door in Wiesbaden and stretches all the way to Koblenz. We made it in to St. Goarshausen shortly after the Loreley in two days. Beautiful views and a lot of up and down. Highlight of the trip - getting scared like sh*t by roaring deer in the middle of the night right next to our tent.

TMB 5 - Tour de Mont Blanc. Kaylee wants to do the whole things. Les Houches we are coming...

We woke up early. It was noticeably cold this morning. According to the weather app Chamonix had 9C at 6am so in our altitude it was just above freezing. This explains also why we kept our sweaters on and actually thought about getting the gloves out. The view on Mont Blanc was still hidden by clouds.


Good timing. We were on the trail for maybe 15 minutes when it started raining. Our luck. We packed the tent dry and also had time to get ready and going before the rain. So the first stop to put on the rain gear. Downhill for the first couple of hours. The rain stopped and we changed to the "performance gear" again:


We reached the valley floor again and our first escape point for the tour. To the left we could see Chamonix already and it would have only been two hours to town in the valley. But since it was only 8.00 o'clock no option at all. I still had the plan to maybe take down the gondola from La Flegere which would bring us right into the city center of Chamonix. And then Kaylee started investigating carefully... What do you think? Can we make it all the way? I said it will be a long day and a tough one. From the highest point on the ridge we had another 1.600m decent into Les Houches. And then she said it - "I really want to do the whole thing! Please, can we do it? I want to finish the trail!". Well, what can I say. Not much was needed to convince me... 😂


The mission was clear and that also changed our speed. Kaylee was relieved and started running up the hill. The beginning of our last long climb which would continue all day long up to Le Brevent. Kaylee flew up the hill passing all of the day hikers obviously being happy about the fact that we would do the whole thing. So up the hill, passing a few waterfalls and taking a few ladders up to La Flegere.


We ran out of food last night. The last dinner but also the last piece of cheese and the last salami. We saved five granola bars for breakfast and counted on good food in the Rifugio La Flegere for lunch. When we arrived there for lunch we had to find out that the restaurant was still closed and only the snack bar was open. What a pity! Heineken beer from the tap and unexciting sandwiches... It was sad. Up in the mountains and only crappy tourist food. Well, we fueled ourselves for the last 15km and continued up to Le Brevent.

On the north-east slope there was still snow left. We briefly stopped on the top of Le Brevent but continued quickly afterwards. We still had a long way down and I was getting hungry again.


1.600m straight down. No brakes. Unlimited switchbacks. It would have been the perfect opportunity to launch a paraglider and just fly down. But we didn't have one so it was hiking again.


Maybe an hour before we arrived in Les Houches we had to take a little break. Our last little reserve (half a block of chocolate) had to fuel us for the last hour. It was a steep section already below the tree line and not a lot of space next to the trail. We laid down on the ground and due to the slope leaves, pine needles and dirt fell on top of us. We looked like real hikertrash. No shower in four days. The same shirt. Sweaty and smelly. And now rolling in the dirt. It felt good to be back. And it felt bad to know that it was almost over already again...

We continued and reached the road. It was also the area of a game reserve where deer, chamois and capricorns could be seen. Since we were on an asphalt road I looked up into the reserve while walking because I wanted to spot one of the capricorns. And then it happened. Nothing for the past 4 days. No injury, no slip nothing stupid. But on the asphalt road one single big hole. And I stepped into it fell, rolled twice on the road, sprained my ankle and collected scratches on arms and legs. I am such an idiot...! 😂

A little shock but nothing serious happened. Fortunately. And then we arrived in Les Houches again. After 4 days, 2 hours and 55 minutes we were back. 165km and many passes later. What an incredible tour. Thank you Smiles for crushing miles with me 😘



We took the train back to Chamonix and then fist things first:


After an amazing evening out with Kaylee's mom and her sister we decided to take the gondola up to Aiguille du Midi at 7am. An amazing start into a rest day 😂

tourdemontblanc-159The guy at the valley station just looked at me and said: "You know, it's -2C up there?". And I said "Why?". "You are wearing shorts and a t-shirt. Just saying...". 😂 I have to admit it was a bit chilly up there. 3.800m make quiet a difference in temperature. But really stunning views and weather. We saw all the climbers preapering for their summit attempt on Mont Blanc. Made me a bit jeallous...


And then the first clear view on Mont Blanc since four days. And so close again!


We went down to the middle station, had a great breakfast and traversed into the next valley. Stunning views, sunshine, blue sky and a lot of laughters and stories where shared.





An "easy" day which ended at 17.00h in Chamoix again. Not what we expected as a rest day after the hard last day. The sun and missing clounds also didn't help. Kaylee and I were - again - absolutely shattered. When we arrived back in the appartment we all took a two hour nap. We had another great dinner and it was a perfect end for such an amazing escape. So good to meet Kaylee's sister, Beth and of course Kaylee again.

Short, intensive but more than necessary. Nine month after an incredible outdoor life it felt so good to be out again. The mountains are my element. #happytrails


Sweet as, brew! Let me know when there's new stuff online!

TMB 4 - Tour de Mont Blanc. The most scenic point on the trail and a camp-spot right on the Swiss-French border...

The day started with an easy stroll down the valley. We enjoyed the fresh breeze and shade in the valley during sunrise. It was very quiet and peaceful. The other hikers were all still asleep when we left so we had the valley to ourselves.


I did feel it already yesterday evening. A slight scratching in my throat. And now there it was - a sore throat. The typical start of a cold for me. Fortunately I had no other signs yet but I was worried that hiking 40km wouldn't really help. But well, l guess I would see tonight or tomorrow morning.

We had to drop down to about 1.000m before climbing back up to Champex. We were relieved. The fitness level was there, we were confident we would at least make it back to Chamonix on foot and we enjoyed being out there. It felt like nothing had changed in the last nine month. Kaylee was setting the pace and I fell back taking pictures once in a while catching up afterwards.


The only difference was that it took me longer to catch up again. Maybe Kaylee had trained harder than me... 🤷‍♂️


We went through beautiful pine forest and over glacial morays before we arrived in the smaller villages at the bottom of the valley.


Nestled into the steep valley the little chalets in the typical wooden style. Peaceful.


After about 10km we had the first 500m climb back up to Champex. We arrived early and just in time for the coffee shop to open. It was out of question that we could pass it without getting a coffee. So we dropped the packs, sat down and ordered two cappuccino. The town was still asleep, everything very calm and the surrounding mountains reflected in the little lake of Champex. We also had to take a decision on how to continue. The last high-route alternate was ahead of us. Either we could walk around the formation sheltering Campex or we could hike straight up and over the Fenetre d' Arpette. This would be another additional 1.200m steep climb and with this the highest point en route with 2.665m. The map showed that we would get very close to one of the glaciers on the way down. So the decision was easy.

Leaving Champex wasn't too hard. The coffee was horrible. We chugged it down and started the climb. Only entering "the bowl" made us happy. Definitely the right decision to go up and over:


We were super excited. It looked like rough alpine terrain and according to the map we had to go straight over the wall in front of us. Yeah baby - Rock'n'Roll!


After leaving the tree line the valley welcomed us with a stunning variety of flowers. Everything was green and blooming. I felt set back to the Sierra Nevada a year ago when we hit the blooming season on the PCT. The sun was burning down on us now and it was getting hot. I thought we had missed the last opportunity to get water from one of the streams further down but then I heard a little tickling sound. In a crack of a rock face a little spring spilled water out onto the ground. Not enough to create a stream but enough to fill up a bottle. Ice cold spring water. What can you ask more for... 😍


The climb was getting steeper and steeper. And when we came out of the alpine scrub we had to bolder and scramble up the last 400m in altitude. Also a few snow patches were left. Nothing dangerous or unmanageable but definitely the most challenging part on the entire TMB. Nothing comparable with the gently graded PCT slopes but real alpine stuff. I have the feeling most TMB hikers are scared off by the big climb and so it was really quiet on the way up.


Up on the pass we did not get less than expected. Views were incredible and the payback for 1.800m climb from the valley floor. We dropped our packs and had the most scenic lunch break of the tour. Italian cheese, salami and of course Haribos!


The daily game started again. We could see clouds building up again in the south some of them towering up getting darker... So we decided to get off the ridge.

The pink shorts back in business. The best decision ever not to frame them but to make them wearable again and to get them back into the mountains...


On the way down we passed the glacier which we did see on the map already. Heavily crevassed impressively demonstrating the danger of hiking on glaciers... On our side of the valley we had a few big wash-outs which either came from avalanches in spring or maybe even mud slides earlier in the season from a lot of water. So the trail was gone and we had to scramble down a few sections. Nothing to dangerous but still we needed to watch our steps. Falling would have not been a good option. We were glad that the rain hadn't started yet.


Before we reached the bottom of the valley the rain hit us. It started pouring down on us and we rescued ourselves into the little Rifugio for a coffee. Shitty coffee number 2 today. Instant coffee 🙈. But at least we were out of the rain. A thunder cell went right over the pass we had been on an hour ago. A few lightnings unloaded into the mountains and it was beautiful to watch it - from inside...

It was already 17.00 o'clock but we needed to continue to have a chance to finish tomorrow. So when the rain calmed down again we started the next climb. The never-ending game of putting on a rain jacket to stay dry from the rain and then getting soaked from sweating vs. not putting on rain gear and then getting wet and cold. So after a few sessions of putting jackets on and off the rain finally died down and the sky cleared again. With a lot of manual work the Swiss had put a trail into an almost straight rock face to be able to get through it.


After another two and a half hours we reached the Swiss / French border on the Col de Balme. It was only 19.30 and actually to early to stop. We had "only" done 37km so far and we wanted to get another 5 to 10 in today to give ourselves a better position for tomorrow. But when we reached the Col we couldn't resist. We had a beautiful view on the Mont Blanc which was covered in a thunder cell. The play of clouds, lightning and the sunset was so stunning that we just pitched the tent right on the pass watching the scenery with our dinner.


The sunset was incredible. We pitched the tent so we could see Mont Blanc while laying in the tent. Unbelievable that our last night out was there already. This time of course we had a time restriction and no chance to slow down. But it was sad again that we were almost done - again. It seems to be a never-ending story...


We crawled into our sleeping bags and watched the last little rays of sun light. A tough and also very rewarding day. My throat was ok. I could still feel it but it didn't get worse. I was really hoping for it to also stay stable tomorrow.


Good night MB 😘

Sweet as, brew! Let me know when there's new stuff online!

TMB 3 - Tour de Mont Blanc. The never ending high-route alternate, good coffee, thunderstorms, Switzerland and a fellow PCT hiker...

We did get a late start this morning. We snoozed the alarm a few times and only made it out of camp at around 7.15am. Yesterday's 44km left their scars. Our legs felt heavy this morning and the almost 1.000m climb straight out of Courmayeur were strenuous. But, our mood was back to normal. No signs from yesterdays doubts. We felt happy again and also a little proud we made it so far (and of course that we kicked the trail runners butts 😂). It also ment we had a chance of finishing the trail and it was very realistic that we would at least make it to Chamonix by walking maybe missing out on the last 20km or so. After the rain and still having wet shoes we were so looking forward to get coffee in the first refugio. But when Kaylee went in to kindly ask for two cappuccino they told her "No!". Not that we wanted anything for free. No, we wanted to leave money with them. I would have thought that this would work very easily - especially in Italy 😂 But no coffee for us. So we continued without coffee. And again we chose the high-route alternative which we only realised was a real high-route when we were half way in. Three big climbs in a row with our heavy legs.


We hiked on a ridge parallel to the Mont Blanc massif. Such an impressive wall of stone!


And at the same time it almost felt a bit like being in Scotland or Iceland. The ridge we walked up was hilly and coloured in such a lush green that it was a hard contrast to the wall on the other side of the valley.




A lot of up and down, the Col du Sapin and te Col entre deux Sauts later we came back into a valley which should connect us again with the trail. But I can only recommend to take the "little" detour! It was well worth it:



And what can I say - it also gave me this. One of the or maybe even my absolute favourite shot of the tour:


We arrived at the Rifugio Bonatti and here we received our well deserved cappuccino. Actually two. We pitched our tent to dry it from the night and had a beautiful lunch break right in front of this massive wall #ilovemountains



Before we could takle the last climb of today and with this entering Switzerland we had to drop down all the way again into the valley. But the views were stunning. We passed waterfalls and also the flowers and green was amazing. I stoped every five minutes trying to capture the scenery. Photographers-delight.





On the climb up we felt the first spray reaching us. When we turned around we could see the grey wall coming closer and closer. From the direction of the wind and the also how the clouds were moving I thought it would most probably pass uns or maybe just reach us with its edges but the wind was so strong that it blew the rain over to us. And then the first lightning hit. I counted the seconds between lightning and thunder - 8km away. Not much but still ok. So maybe 10-15 minutes away according to my assumed wind speed. Our alternatives were to go back down which ment walking right towards the cell or trying to run up getting over the pass and dropping down as quick as possible to not be the lightning rod on the ridge with our tracking poles. Since the way up was also about a 90 degree angle away from the cell and the direction it was moving to we decide to go up quickly. Everything went well. The cell passed us, the lightning didn't get any closer than the 8km and we only received a little shower. Sweet as, bro.


We treated ourselves with an ice cold beer in the first Swiss hut and studied the maps for the rest of the day.


Unfortunately we were dropping down into civilisation again. This ment limited opportunities for stealth camping. And respecting private property is different thing than breaking the rules with wild camping somewhere up in the mountains (of course leaving no trace! LNT). So we decided to stay on a campsite in La Fouly which was actually a bit shorter than we wanted to go. But with the extra 5-8km we wanted to do we would have ended up right at the bottom of the valley with a lot of houses and possibly no camp spots. Also water would have been an issue since there was farming everywhere. So the campsite stopped us at 19.30 already. "Only" 32km today. But she'll be right bro. Tomorrow is another day...


When I arrived at the tent site a few people were there already. And they all looked like TMB hikers. Tents, backpacks and "stuff" for a hike. When I had picked a spot and took my backpack down people looked at me with disbelieve. I could read on their foreheads "What is he doing here? If he wants to camp he will need a tent and all that. Didn't he bring that? Idiot!?". I have to admit I really had to hold myself together not to laugh. And then I emptied my pack with the few little thing I carry, pitched the tent, blew up my tiny air mattress, took my sleeping bag out of the compression bag and set up the stove to cook. It was funny... 😂

A few people came over to check out the tent. They still couldn't believe that I had all my equipment in the little pack. And one guy came over saying "This is a Zpacks, right?". Apparently somebody who was into the topic of ultra-light hiking. A minute later it turned out that he was also a former PCT hiker who hiked in the same season as Kaylee and me. 6-toes was his trail name. We sat down, had dinner together and exchanged trail stories and had a great evening. #hikertrash

Kaylee cheated and took a shower and we both had the feeling that our hiker hunger kicked in already. We were starving. So we went through a lot of chocolate and other things in the tent. Oh yes, baby. I love hiking...


Sweet as, brew! Let me know when there's new stuff online!

TMB 2 - Tour de Mont Blanc. Italia, up and down, an unintentional participation in a trail running race and being "ab-so-lu-tely shattered" at night!


The night was amazing. Clear and cold and with this amazing feeling of exhaustion I slept like a baby. Also my experiment with the new x-small sleeping pad worked out perfectly fine. I can't move a lot before I fall off but I can sleep on the side and also stretched out on my back without any problems. Using the backpack as extension for me legs worked perfectly fine. New setup approved. 200 grams gone for good 😎

We got up at 5.30am and left camp at shortly after 6 o'clock.



We haven't lost any of our speed-packing skills and organisation. We have been an amazing team for three month and we still are. Just talked about it the other day and to find someone who is as crazy as me (well, or even crazier 😋) is a rare gift. Thanks for being the #besthikingpartnerontheplanet Kaylee... 😘


So we started hiking. We made it to the 24km marker somewhere between Ref. de Nant Borrant and Ch. de la Balme yesterday. We had no clue how far we would get and today would be an important indicator to see how much we can do in one day. Based on this we would get a better feeling how far we could actually make it in four days. So off we went. Clearly you could see that we were in the Alps:


Our first high pass was right ahead of us - the Col dul Bonhomme with 2.329m. A nice climb in the early morning sun. We had camped right at the tree line last night so we were in the alpine scrub quickly. The area I love the most. Flowers, little bushes, grass, moss, and the rough and rocky parts with endless views...




On top of the pass we encountered our first little snow patch but since we were so sweaty we decided to traverse a little further for our second breakfast break to get out of the wind.


We also came to the first point where we had to made a decision about our route. Badly prepared as we were we didn't know that there are a few alternates on the TMB. There are three or four sections were you can take the "high route" which will lead you straight across passes instead of walking around them. This means of course even more up and down but also more spectacular views. We just looked at each other and it was not really anything we had to talk about - we were here to have fun and so surely we took the first high route. This led us to the Pass Col de la Croix du Bonhomme and from there we had to drop down 700m to La Ville des Glaciers.




It was a first taste of what to expect during the rest of the tour: always something between 600 and 1.500m up and down. Flat parts? They don't really exist. And then we were already on the 700m way up to Col de la Seigne and with this the border to Italy. Italia, Italia... 😍 It's so cool that on this trip we will be in a different every day - by foot. On the way up clouds were pushing in already. We wanted to have a longer lunch break up here since we had the first 20km in our legs by this time already. As soon as we sat down it started pouring on us. We barely managed to get our rain gear out before we and our stuff got wet. We quickly hiked downhill with the sky just opening up and dumping water on us. The only luck was that we had tail wind and therefore the almost horizontal rain and wind rather pushed us down than making our faces feel like being in a washing machine.


Since there was no end in sight and we were pretty soaked already we decided to make a quick stop in the Rifugio Elisabetta. We had a hot coffee and waited for about 45 minutes for the rain to calm down.


We knew we still had quite some distance to make for today to get to Courmayeur for some food shopping. So we  left Elisabetta in a light drizzle and were gifted with these stunning views of mountains and cloud...




Passing Glacier du Miage was a very special moment for me. This glacier is a very unique one. For one it is with around 10km of length Italy's longest glacier but even more interesting it is Europe's largest debris-covered glacier. About half of its surface is covered with rocks from the surrounding walls which means it looks like a big tounge of rocks. But actually it is ice and only the top layer - between a few centimeters and a meter in thickness - are rocks which are transported into the valley on the glacial ice. Why was it so special to me? When I climbed Mont Blanc in 2011 our journey begun on Glacier du Miage which we walked on all the way up to the ridge which connects the Aiguille de Bionnassay and the Dome du Gouter. We also fell into several crevasses of this glacier on our way down. So approaching the glacier and then finally looking into its valley brought back many memories on my first real alpine mountaineering experience. We could see the entire glacier winding itself up the massif at the end of the valley into a northerly direction passing the Rifugio Gonella where we stayed the night before the summit day. A majestic scenery with all the clouds now...

Glacier du Miage in the front - looks like a horizontal rock wall...

But there was still work to do! We had another 500m climb up a side valley before we would drop 1.500m straight down into Courmayeur. Unintentionally we ended up in a trail running race which happened on this day and was also following our intended route up and down into Courmayeur which was their finish. These guys ran a 55km race through this area also constantly going up and down. To be fair they were on their last 10km and with this already had 45km in their legs. But on the last climb Kaylee who was in front just started passing these guys. You should have seen their faces when they saw this girl with her backpack passing them on the way up during their race. It was hilarious... 😂 I had no chance but to follow her so we ended up passing every trail runner on our way up. On the way down they were a bit faster than us without packs but since we made some ground good on the way up we arrived at the finish line with our "crowed" from the climb. They couldn't believe us being down there already with them and they all gave us a cheerful and happy "Ciao, ciao!!". We still seem to be in shape! Pretty amazing that there seems to be a good memory effect in leg-muscles. Trail running seems to be something I might have to check out in the future...


It turned out to be our luck that we raced the guys. We arrived in Courmayeur at 19.20 and the supermarket closed at 19.30. So we just made it in time to get food and when we came out of the supermarket Kaylee was completely exhausted. She even talked about taking a break tomorrow and how unimportant it was to finish the whole thing. She also became very quiet. But we still had to organise water for tomorrow and to find a camp spot for the night. Wild camping was not permitted but also no camping site was available so we had to make our way out of town and find something where we could hide with our tent. We stopped at the five-star Grant Hotel which was en route for us and asked them for water. They very politely escorted us out of the lobby into their garden and offered us to use their garden hose - I couldn't stop laughing. They just didn't want dirty and smelly hikers in their lobby. #hikertrashforlife! So good to be back on the trail!!! 😍

We had to go for another kilometer when we found a nice and flat spot next to the river sheltered with bushes and trees from the road. A perfect spot for the night. After in total 44km and thousands of meters in elevation change we pitched our tent at shortly before 21.00 o'clock. So after 14 hours of really hard hiking we were "ab-so-lu-tely shattered!" - as our beloved friend Martyn used to say on the PCT in these situations. Well, he would actually say it every evening or also on the afternoon already... 😂

We were knackered! Batteries empty and we fell into a deep sleep after dinner. I only woke up at night when a heavy thunderstorm with lightning went over our tent. But luckily we were in the valley sheltered by trees and by far the most uninteresting item for a lighting to struck into. And the rest of the night - I can't remember a single thing. I was absolutely shattered but happy. 😊


Sweet as, brew! Let me know when there's new stuff online!

TMB 1: Tour de Mont Blanc. 160km through France, Italy and Switzerland around the Mont Blanc massif - crushing miles hiking with Smiles...

Where to start...? It has been a while since I have seen mountains for the last time. A few short escapes to Switzerland in February but the last real hike was the PCT. And we finished the trail in September last year. I can't believ that this has been so long ago already. Even though I enjoy the start-up life I am craving time in the mountains constantly. You will never be the same after a long-distance-hike they say... I think they are right.

I still would have probably not initiated this trip by myself. But I received a message a few weeks ago that someone would be in Switzerland for a few days and if I wanted to join for some serious hiking. And of course this was all I needed to go. So I booked a flight to Geneva, jumped into my favourite airline and off I was. The cool thing about being ultra-light is also that you can book the hand-luggage only fares if you go on a full camping trip and you are still way below weight and size limits... 😂


A quick hop on a bus from Geneva to Chamonix and that's were I was expected already. It had been over 9 month now since we had seen each other for the last time and we did you through an amazing time together last year. So it was very special and way overdue that we met again. Moreover I don't know anyone who would have agreed and actually would have had as much fun as us two to do this trail in such a short amont of time.

What can I say - Smiles is back! 😍


We did spend 24/7 for more than 3 month together in a tent and on the trail. Now we had been back to society for quite some time. Kaylee even got her own new apartment. But when it comes to hiking nothing has changed. We are still crushing it.

We did some last food shopping for the next couple of days. That is one of the major improvements compared to the PCT - you can choose from 200 different types of cheese and and uncountable amount of salami and other amazing trail food. Where we had 8 kinds of beef jerkey and maybe 6 differnt types of cheese for five month we had problems deciding which ones to take. Sooooo good. But the downside of the generally good approach of reasonable packaging size in Europe is that you don't find 1 liter Gatorade bottles with the big opening. So no pee-bottle on this trail for me... 🙈

Now we were ready to begin the adventure. Based on our research we were talking about a 170km hike with about 23.000m of elevation change. Sounds like a lot, is a lot but it becomes a real challenge when you have another constraint. Kaylees mother and sister were also in Switzerland and wanted us to be back on the 17th to have the evening and next day together before they all were all going back home. Today was the 13th, 14.00 o'clock already. So we had 4 and a bit of a day. Since it would have been a straight climb of 1.500m out of Chamonix and then 5km later a 1.500km decent to Les Houches we decided to take the train there to start the tour. It was going to make us faster on the first day and we were already closer to Chamonix now on the trail if we wouldn't make it all the way. It sounded quite impossible at the beginning but we said we'll just try how far we get. So off we went!

Les Houches - clean and fresh.

Finally at 15.00 we made it on the trail. After the first navigational challenges to actually find a way out of town which probably cost us half an hour we were finally on the trail. A little taste of what we were going to get. A constant up and down hill. We left civilisation behind us and went into the mountains - we thought.



The first climb was steep. Very steep. And it was hot. We were sweating and talking was reduced to a bare minimum. Were we completely out of shape? Was it the heat? Or maybe the steaper trails compared to the PCT? Or everything at the same time? We were fast but thinking about another 160km in four days sounded more and more unrealistic. I caught myself looking at the map already looking for "escape" points at the end.

After the first climb we passed the first serviced hut with food and drinks and caught our first views of Mont Blanc. But shortly after that we were actually back on an asphalt road passing shops. We looked at each other asking ourselves why we were carrying food for 3 days already. Not very ultra-light at all. But it also felt more like a serious hike to us somehow.

But then we got out of the last town in Les Contamines and we entered the wilderness.



Most of the time we spent on catching up. A lot of stuff had happened in the last month and even thought we talked on a regular basis there was lots to talk about. So we hiked and talked. And it just felt great to be out again. Nothing had changed. Kaylee naturally went up front making the pace (and what a pace). I fell back a few times taking pictures and I had a hard time catching up! Was I gonna make it at all? I was afraid of feeling completely exhausted tomorrow already.

At 20.30 we found exactly what we had been looking for - the perfect camp spot. We talked about it a few times. Wild camping is not really permitted like it is in the US, Canada or NZ. But for one we had no option as to hike as far as we would get on a day and then just pitch a tent and we also couldn't imagine ourselves in a Refugio instead of our missed tent. So in respect of the "Leave No Trace" principle (camping only on durable surfaces, pack it in - pack it out, deposit of human waste and toilet paper, etc..) we decided to camp. And how could anyone resist to camp here:


After 24km on our first half-day we went to bed after a quick dinner. Exhausted but very happy. Also really curious to see how my extra small sleeping pad would work. Kaylee told me I could forget about trading at night if I was getting cold argumenting that she was way shorter than me and would probably fit on the mattress. She just said: "You wanted it this way: ultra-light, freeze at night! 😋"


Sweet as, brew! Let me know when there's new stuff online!